It did not take us long to realize how very fortunate we are to have had Ketut, recommended to us as our personal taxi driver, he is in great demand, and thankfully we took the precaution of contacting him prior to our arrival as we have several full day trips planned. His English is excellent and his stories bring the Balinese culture to life, not to mention he knows where to go for the best quality and prices. Prior to being a taxi driver he was a rice farmer and plans to return to that way of life once he retires!
Sun 24th was our first guided 8 hr day where we walked among several of the islands 20,000 temples. It is custom to wear a sarong before entering any temple (to keep the knees covered?) naturally there are many vendors vying for your attention, this I found to be most intimidating as they refuse to understand 'no thank you' and this comes from one who has had many similar experiences in Central America, these ladies take the award for persistence.
Even though we consider ourselves fairly fit and used to walking, we found ourselves quite challenged by the steps at times. Perhaps the most intruguing temple was 'Tirtha Empul' which is a" Holy Spring Temple" where, after the locals have placed their thanksgiving offerings at the shrine, they enter the waist deep pools fully clothed (very orderly, reminding me of the lines in Disneyworld) to pray and have water cascade over their heads from stone spouts. Each spout represents a different thanksgiving, it could be for the recovery of an illness, birth of a child, honoring the dead, a new possession such as a house/car ... later the families eat a prepared meal brought from home in special baskets reserved only for these occasions.
In the countryside of Tegalalang, there are many beautifully laid out rice terraces on the way to Batur Lake and Batur Volcano. The cooler air was a welcome reprieve from the sticky humid atmosphere of our town, Ubud.
In the name of progress, much of Bali has been westernized, the towns choked with trucks and motorcycles, where it is a common sight to see a family of five on a bike built for two. The market shrine is shrouded in clouds of incense and frangipani flowers, while dogs scavenge for food which they find on the hundreds of food offering plates no larger than the palm of your hand. Row upon row of vendors add to the confusion and bustle of the towns, while women straight backed, balance incredibly large and heavy loads with apparent ease upon their heads. Navigating the sidewalks is a challenge... raised blocks of uneven loose and missing tile, covering water gullies, one definitely needs to keep a watchful eye while walking. But look beyond this and one can see that the black and white (representing life/ death) checkered cloths wrapped around the trees, are there to honor the spirits in conjunction with the flowers, leaves and fruit offerings. Bali is all about harmony and balance.
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