Good Bye Bali

We are on our 6th and final day living with a local family out in the countryside of rice fields. Their home made up of several bungalows... one a kitchen, another a shower room, bedrooms and now the recent addition of two guest bungalows all set in a lush garden of hellaconia, torch- ginger, orchids, banana, coffee and coco trees. It has been just delightful staying with our hosts Wayan, Ayu and their 2 sons, Argus 14 and Anta 10. They have treated us like family, enjoying sharing stories, Balinese meals, and day-to-day living. Ayu gave Ron a 'one on one' lesson for making the delicious chicken soup... it's all in the spices, several of which we are not familiar with, however Ayu made a special trip to the store and presented us with them, hopefully I will be able to get them through customs. Fido, their dog, enjoys stiring up the cats/roosters.. and is always eager to join us on our walks through the rice fields.

Speaking of which, remember those eels I mentioned living in the muddy rice fields....well, they are pretty tasty when 'crispy fried!' Which is more than can be said for the durian fruit... outward appearance - spikey hard melon shape, firm fleshy interior, revealing a soft pearly pocket of pus, smells awful, but just relished by the locals .... I had only a small taste which continued to repeat for hours, giving the illusion I had ingested cow dung! - I think that about sums it up.


Yesterday, was the big New Years Celebration (this year it's 1935!) an anticipated event for many months. The making of the offerings, which normally is a daily event, became a huge preparation. The morning of March 11th we joined all the villagers in their temple for the rituals of prayers, music and dance with elaborate costume and makeup for both females and males alike.



Ayu loaned us traditional clothing and although we still stood out (being THE ONLY non-villagers) we were totally embraced by the community. Arriving at the village crossroads, where the main temple is situated, as guests, we were invited (informed it was an honor) to partake in the sharing of special coffee/steamed - cake made from rice, coconut and banana - normally reserved for the elders/organizers. Everyone sits cross legged on the road with a small backet of flowers, food and incense, the lady beside me happily shared her basket and showed me how to pray and 'wash my face' in the spiralling incense. Lastly we were blessed with holy water which was administered via soaked grass, similar to having a mini shower... all this took several hours, but the young did not cry/complain just patiently sitting alongside their elders.




The 'Ogoh- Ogoh'- huge molded figures, depicting grotesque monsters, their appearance based on traditional demons, are celebrated in a Madi Gras fashion later in the evening. Each village collects donations months prior to making these elaborate Ogoh Ogoh. The skill of making them being passed down to the young boys from the old men, and the cost throughout Bali runs in the thousands of dollars.



The object of this ceremony is to attract all the evil spirits, acknowledging and giving them 'their day'. This annual (a calandar of 420 days) 'parade' starting at dusk and lasting 3-4 hours. One just mingled in the sea of sweat from the thousands of closely packed bodies. Late that night, after a most welcome cold shower, we sat on our porch as the heavens opened and pelted the ground with the hardest rain we have seen... our hosts exclaimed at breakfast the following day, that the Gods were well pleased with all the offerings/ celebrations of the previous day.

Then came the time of "Nyepi" - a 24 hour time of quietness, where the whole population stays indoors, keeping silent in order to fool any wandering bad spirits that had not been scared away by the Ogoh Ogoh the previous evening. For 24 hours, Bali stops, businesses/airports are closed, streets free of traffic, lights off, no cooking, no work, and guests are urged to remain in their hotels in the cities. The food we eat this day was all prepared in the previous days.

Our three weeks in Bali have been a wonderful adventure. We have become familiar with a culture that appears to be stuck-in-time and fully dedicated to perserving their connections to their past. Daily life absorbed with sacred rituals devoted to mantaining a life balanced between good and evil.

Gili Trawangan

Taking Ketut's advise, we took a 3 day detour to Gili Trawangan, the largest of the 3 Gili islands with a local population of 800. It was quite the adventure... after a 90 min 'fast boat' ride we disembarked not alongside a pier, but in the shallow waters of the harbor - best to be barefoot - I quickly whiped off my sandals, however, my capris were quite soaked. We retrieved our luggage from the beach before taking a horse drawn cart ride (which is the main transportation) along the bechside road to our hotel. We were quite delighted with our ride, hanging on to the sides as the cart navigated the many potholes. A storm 24 hr previously had disrupted electricity causing the a/c and lighting to be off, thankfully, connection was resumed several hours later.
Having a 4 hr wait before checking into our room, we set off to explore the town, comprised of muliple eating options (all on the beach front with the hotels on the opposite side of the road). Eating our chicken kebabs, overlooking the Indian Ocean and listening to the 'calls to prayer' from the mosque immediately behind us, we were more than content to be in this tranquil setting.




Later we enjoyed lounging by the hotel pool. That first evening out we had not thought to pick up an umbrella from the lobby and had the fun of walking back to our hotel in what we came to know as one of the many unpredictable rain showers, making shoes obsolete, we were ankle deep in muddy water!




Considering absolutely everything has to be transported by boat - water, propane, food, etc... we were very impressed with the meals we ate here and they were reasonably priced too. The main attraction for escaping to this small paradise island is the snorkling and thriving diving idustry
Though walking is the prefered method of getting around, the following day we rented bicycles for the day and took the 90-120 min ride around the perimeter of the island, though many times it was more like taking the bike for a walk as it was too difficuilt to ride the sandy footpath. The interior of the island is where most of the locals live in shack style homes, it's also where the cows and chickens reside.




In the 90's Gili Trawangan was very much ' the party' island for the young backpackers who at that time slept mainly on the beaches. But since 2005 there was a massive development boom producing upscale hotels and restaurants. However, there are still regular party nights to be found, if that's your desire, but there are warnings to be careful not to drink the locally produced spirits as they contain methanol, causing serious injury and even death among tourists and locals alike.... sticking to beer is advised.
Gili is Muslim, like most of Indonesia, (while Bali is mainly Hindu), however, we have found ALL people to be genuinely kind, treating tourists and each other as family. Life is simple and non-stressful, a lifestyle that the Western world should try to incorporate.

Bali Culture

Hands

Every hand movement should be graceful and calm. A handshake is a light touch of humanity not a show of strength. Hands are sacred, a gift is offered or received with the right hand cupped by the left. Both hands united in greeting or prayer fingers pointed up for God, forward for humans and down for the devil. The hypnotic fingers of the Balinese dancer reflects their importance in spiritual life. Pleasing the Gods is a daily full time job, not just special events or church on Sunday.




In Bali the training for the "Legong" dance begins at age 5 and is performed by girls who have not yet reached puberty. We greatly enjoyed an evening of dance but not so enthralled with the accompanying music.




Parks and Temples

Bali Bird Park (also known as "Heaven on Earth Park") is an absolute must to see when visiting Bali. This park provides a sanctuary for some of the rarest of exotic birds, totalling almost a 1000 birds of 250 different species from Indonesia, Africa and S. America. One needs at least 3 hours here as there is so much to experience. Adjacent is the reptile park, mainly snakes and of the smaller very poisionous variety, however, we were somewhat in awe of the albino boa, just huge, and the cobra. When driving throught the countryside, Ketut pointed out some unusual cage like woven structures atop poles at the corners of the houses.. these are there to prevent the snake from entering the home!



We have toured the exotic gardens of Tita Gangga, otherwise known as The Kings Water Park, both tranquil and beautiful. The Tanahlot Temple situated beside one of the lakes in the mountains is by far the most picturesque. The Botanical Gardens is a favorite place of Ketut's where he frequently brings his family for picnics. Each garden is unique, preserving the beauty of this country, in conjunction with remembering to honor the spirits with daily offerings. It is said that the women spend 1800 hours a year making offerings for the deceased.

Teeth filing

Teeth are seen as the 'seat of feelings' ie lust, anger, greed and the teeth filing cermony marks a time when adolesents become adults - a total of 8 are filed - six front and two back. The file (not the size of an emery board, but similar to one a carpenter would use!) and small hammer are purified first with holy water, special clothing is worn and an instrument similar to a xylophone is played to induce harmony, cloves are provided to dull the pain,- Ketut, our guide, shared that he needed cloves for 2 days! Afterwards, of course a great feast is shared with the families.

Catering to the tourists

One cannot walk the streets without a non-stop stream of offers for a massage, manicure/pedicure (I resisted the temptation to plunge my feet into the sidewalk tanks of fish touted as a great way to rid yourself of dead skin!) There is also the abundunt offer for taxis.... however the one time we needed a taxi there were non to be found... it was at night, and not in the normal tourist area, a kindly motorcyclist sensing our discomfort, rustled up a private car ride back to our accomodation.

The outdoor markets are crammed, each stall looking the same as the next. Browsing is impossible as one is immediately hustled to purchase sarongs, eyeglasses, even rolex watches. The fruits and vegtables, however, are displayed beautifully, with fresh lemongrass and abundant spices.



New experiences

We had the opportinity to peel the bark of a cinnamon tree on one of our drives in the country. Snakefruit is popular but the harvesting has to be a challenge, as they grow in dark nut like clusters amongst the most thorny and lethal looking trees. We were surprised to learn that rattan too is covered by a similar thorny exterior, and the farmers wait for this outter layer to burst open first before gathering the smooth pliable cane. I learned also that the crushed leaves of the hibiscus plant is an excellent hair conditioner.

Bali - Villages and Countryside

We had not realized how diverse Bali is, each village or area specializing in one commodity only, from brick making to silver jewlery. We have visited the villages renouned for their woodcarving, basket and material weaving, having the honor of meeting "The Master Carver", I Made Ade.

The growing of flowers, fruits and vegetables being more suited in the higher altitudes with the rich volcanic earth. It was a welcome relief for us to spend some time away from the heat and traffic of Ubad.

The countryside is rich and lush with rice terraces, the irrigation schedule is arranged through a communal system in order for all the farmers to have an equal share. Because this irrigation is free flowing there are no mosquitoes in the rice fields. Egrets ignore the scarecrows and gently dot the landscape, while broods of ducks huddle in muddy waters searching for the eels and bugs... it's a good eco system. The crops are harvested by hand and carried (mainly by women, and on their heads) in bamboo baskets. For added income, in addition to farming, a family will also raise a pig (new definition of having a piggy bank!) and a cow. It's the women's responsibility to raise the pig, while the man raises the cow. Some men also take great pride in raising roosters for cock fighting, we were told that some wives become jealous of these roosters, as the husbands spend so much time fussing over them... moving them frequently throughout the day so they have access to fresh grass and bugs, in addition to giving daily massages to these birds!




Each village is very different too, some unkempt with chickens, half starved dogs, wandering oxen followed by a gaggle of geese. Yet peek behind the entrance to the homes and one is greeted with open smiling faces, a woman sitting weaving cloth one thread at a time, another making thin rice cakes for offerings. We stumbled across a village thanksgiving cermony whose purpose apparently had something to do with interfering with the bad karma of a recently deceased relative, thus ensuring harmony for their future happiness (or something like that!). The elder was very gracious, trying to explain, in passable English, the purpose of this cermony. Over in a corner we couldn't help but notice the young girls and children playing on their smartphones!







Then there was the extreme, a very clean, orderly village with brick homes, bamboo roofs and smooth stoned roads... no animals wandering anywhere. Future ownership of a home here is strictly controlled as it is restricted to the offspring of present owners, no outsider is permitted to move here.

There is one village famous for the roosting of the herons (hundreds!) who return each evening around 6 pm. Ketut, our guide, took us there to see them returning for the night. The smell from the bird droppings was quite offensive, these poor villagers apparently have tried to get the herons to relocate to another area, even if it were just a field or two away, but to no avail, they prefer to perch in the trees on the main road alongside their homes.

Ketut... our Bali guide

It did not take us long to realize how very fortunate we are to have had Ketut, recommended to us as our personal taxi driver, he is in great demand, and thankfully we took the precaution of contacting him prior to our arrival as we have several full day trips planned. His English is excellent and his stories bring the Balinese culture to life, not to mention he knows where to go for the best quality and prices. Prior to being a taxi driver he was a rice farmer and plans to return to that way of life once he retires!



Sun 24th was our first guided 8 hr day where we walked among several of the islands 20,000 temples. It is custom to wear a sarong before entering any temple (to keep the knees covered?) naturally there are many vendors vying for your attention, this I found to be most intimidating as they refuse to understand 'no thank you' and this comes from one who has had many similar experiences in Central America, these ladies take the award for persistence.

Even though we consider ourselves fairly fit and used to walking, we found ourselves quite challenged by the steps at times. Perhaps the most intruguing temple was 'Tirtha Empul' which is a" Holy Spring Temple" where, after the locals have placed their thanksgiving offerings at the shrine, they enter the waist deep pools fully clothed (very orderly, reminding me of the lines in Disneyworld) to pray and have water cascade over their heads from stone spouts. Each spout represents a different thanksgiving, it could be for the recovery of an illness, birth of a child, honoring the dead, a new possession such as a house/car ... later the families eat a prepared meal brought from home in special baskets reserved only for these occasions.



In the countryside of Tegalalang, there are many beautifully laid out rice terraces on the way to Batur Lake and Batur Volcano. The cooler air was a welcome reprieve from the sticky humid atmosphere of our town, Ubud.

In the name of progress, much of Bali has been westernized, the towns choked with trucks and motorcycles, where it is a common sight to see a family of five on a bike built for two. The market shrine is shrouded in clouds of incense and frangipani flowers, while dogs scavenge for food which they find on the hundreds of food offering plates no larger than the palm of your hand. Row upon row of vendors add to the confusion and bustle of the towns, while women straight backed, balance incredibly large and heavy loads with apparent ease upon their heads. Navigating the sidewalks is a challenge... raised blocks of uneven loose and missing tile, covering water gullies, one definitely needs to keep a watchful eye while walking. But look beyond this and one can see that the black and white (representing life/ death) checkered cloths wrapped around the trees, are there to honor the spirits in conjunction with the flowers, leaves and fruit offerings. Bali is all about harmony and balance.

Arrival in Singapore and Bali

Our 29 hours of travel and 3 flights to get to Singapore, turned out not so bad after all... the last 8 hr flight from Tokyo was only half full so we were able to stretch out on 3 seats each, which made for a welcome relief. Our 12 hr layover in Singapore, before our final flight to Bali, was spent in the airport transit hotel, didn't have to worry about retrieving our checked in luggage and enjoyed the best shower and sleep.

If one has to be stuck at an airport, THIS is the one to be in... Changi is spacious, clean and tranquil, with many small gardens to enjoy... our favorite being the butterfly garden. Then there is the movie theatre, gym, swimming pool, abundant flowers and pools... very enjoyable, but it was time to move on to Bali...




Kebun Indah... translated .... "Beautiful Garden" and this is our accomodation for our first 10 days. Comprised of many individual bungalows set into a small hillside, ours happens to be located alongside 2 small rice fields. It is hard to believe we are steps away from the busy road in the town of Ubad, as one feels totally surrounded by tranquility. Each 'bungalow' has it's own porch where breakfast is served each day. A welcome addition is the pool set among the gardens and of course the massage spa.

Great care is taken to keep everything in balance/harmony with the spirits of those who have already passed from this life onto the next, as " offering" baskets made from the palm leaf containing flowers, rice and incense are placed in small shrines in the trees and at the entrance to each bungalow.




Late afternoon mosquito coils are placed either side of our door... geckos are encouraged to scamper in and out as they bring good luck to the house. Mosquito netting surrounds our bed, but thankfully seems to be unnecessary (the coils are doing the job).

Each morning we are awakened to the gentle swish-swish of the palm frond brush as our porch and patch of grass alongside us is being swept, this combined with multiple bird songs and distant roosters make for a fine 'wake up call'.

The Balinese staff greet us with gentle courtsey and beautiful smiles so open and friendly, we feel as though we are family. Several have worked here for years and are delighted to see the photos we have on our laptop and hear about our friends who have visited here before us, and were it not for them, we would have missed out on this very special location.