It took all day to get ourselves relocated from Panama to the huge sprawling city of Quito, temp barely 60 degrees and raining.... could we really be on the equator? But, with an altitude of 9000 ft we found ourselves wearing multiple warm layers and our rain gear, oh yes, and where was the oxgyen ....the air seemed so thin, this was to be 'home' for the next 4 days. As always, when we are in cities, we find ourselves walking 7, 8 or 10 miles a day as we explored museums, churches and generally get the feel of the place. We found that it did warm up between 11- 3, and our day packs would be full of clothing, as we peeled our layers off. Although Quito was very easy on our wallets, large $1beers, full meal $3 each, alpaca yarn for $5/100gm, Ron had a haircut for $2.75, generally I did not care for this city - it didn't feel safe. We were constantly being warned to be vigilant for pickpockets, not to be out walking after dark. One local lady even discouraged us from walking in a certain tourist area, saying' don't look, don't smile, don't speak to anyone, they could (and here she indicates something being placed over our nose) do to your body what ever they want" .... Well .... that was enough to put me off, and this was in broad daylight! The traffic was crazy, pedestrains second class citizens, and the buses belch out black clouds of exhaust fumes.
Our Quito experience was topped off with a 2 hr taxi ride from hell, the driver, a maniac. The man beside me kept crossing himself, Ron and I were white knuckled in an attempt to prevent ourselves being hurtled all over the place. There were 5 of us jammed in like sardines, luggage strapped on the roof, the driver seemed possessed, overtaking everything, ignoring the double yellow lines on the hair raising bends on what seemed like two wheels. We were most thankful to finally reach our destination, Otavalo, a small town nestled amongst lush mountains. Our accomodation was a cabin a couple of miles out of town, with scenery that can best be described as ' Little Switzerland'...llamas, donkeys, cows, dogs, clean air and oh so tranquil.
Our main reason for coming to this area was to experience "the world famous artisans market", which was somewhat overwhelming but really impressive, especially the live stock section, where locals were buying, selling and exchanging just about everything imaginable, from your everyday farm animal to guinea pigs (on the menu here!) and llamas of course. On Saturdays the venders set up stalls on every available speck of sidewalk and alleyway, and one can literally spend all day browsing and bargaining for treasures.
On Easter Sunday I attended a Catholic church service conducted in Latin and found myself to be the only tourist. Not only that, but the only grey haired person (and I was by no means the eldest) feeling like a giant beside the 4 ft, and under, local indians, who smiled their toothless smiles with bright eyes set in weather beaten faces. We were packed in like sardines standing, shoulders touching, and during the Easter Service, several groups of local indians brought bunches of corn stalks to the alter to receive a blessing for a good harvest. It really was a unique and unforgetable service. Later in the day I went horseriding, something I had not done for 25 years.... Now what on earth made me think I could just step up and swing my leg over the saddle as I had last done! but, I managed on the second attempt with some assistance that time. The horse was no fool he knew he didn't have an equestrian on his back, but we plodded on even through the pouring rain.
After the w/e we chose to take a bus back to Quito instead of a taxi, which turned out to be not only much cheaper but more comfortable too, and then a flight to Cuenca.......but that's another posting.
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